There are many varieties of pearl, both real and fake, and it’s not always easy to tell the difference between those that are genuine and those that are imitations. Even amongst genuine pearls there are many different classes of both natural and cultured varieties, all with their own different properties and all valued very differently as pearl jewellery. Before buying any pearls it’s important that you know what you’re getting, so here are a few ways to help differentiate between a genuine pearl and a fake:
The Tooth Test
Many people say that by rubbing a pearl against your teeth the texture of the surface will tell you whether or not it is genuine. Genuine pearls usually have a rougher, more irregular texture in contrast to imitation pearls which are usually very smooth or even glassy. This isn't really the most reliable method of testing, as many fake pearls are created to feel as real as possible and some real pearls can sometimes be smooth, particularly if the surface has been dyed.
The Sun Test
Another indicator is to take the pearls into full daylight and look closely at the lustre, or iridescence, that you see on the surface. Apart from extremely unusual and rare specimens, real pearls hardly ever appear perfectly matched in full daylight and you will be able to see slight imperfections in the colour and lustre.
Surface Magnification
Don’t underestimate the power of a magnifying glass – a closeup look at the pearl earrings, necklace or brooch can tell you a lot, and is one of the most effective ways of distinguishing between genuine and fake pearls. Genuine pearls are covered in tiny, almost indistinguishable lines, giving them an almost scaly look under magnification. Whilst there you could also take a look at the small drill holes at either end of the pearl, which in a real pearl will be as tiny as they can be because larger holes devalue the gem. Real pearls usually have holes drilled from either end, so the hole is much smaller in the middle of the pearl.
Shape
One of the most obvious ways to identify real pearl sets is to look closely at the shape of each pearl and whether or not they are close to being identical – real pearls are hardly ever perfectly round, and it is almost unheard of to find a whole string of pearls of exactly the same size, shape and weight. Real pearls that are regular in this way are extremely expensive, or they are more than likely imitations.
X-Ray
The only truly reliable way to be sure a pearl is authentic is to have it verified and certified by a qualified gemologist. For a fee they will be able to x-ray the pearls, showing any variations in density and identifying the nucleus to determine how the pearl was originally formed. You need to be pretty certain that the pearl is real before paying the price for a validation, but some fakes can be very convincing and without damaging the pearl it really is the only way to be completely sure.
